Sunday, April 4, 2010
The delirious ramblings of a happy person.
Some might think that losing your most prized [rented] possession to some little bastard at the cost of one pair of Loeffler Randall Matilde boots would be enough to send me packing….But, it wasn’t. In fact, I think it almost a blessing. I think that by being forced to pay for this bike, I’m that much closer to rationalizing what I think my heart wants: to stay here for a full year, maybe a little more.
I got into grad school…A feat I honestly did not think possible. I mean, of course I was hopeful, but I absolutely was not expecting Boston University to find me an adequate candidate to admit. Now that they have, there is an even bigger question looming. Do I want to go? I’m not sure I can endure the process of applying all over again—particularly the part about begging and harassing professors who barely know me to write for my future. Yet, I also don’t think I’m going to be ready, come August, to leave this place. Time has flown by in an almost surreal way. I feel as if I just arrived and tomorrow marks my three-month anniversary. Besides the little travel I did on my way into Cambodia, I haven’t started the epic Asian odyssey I have planned and when I look to the months ahead, there just doesn’t seem to be enough time to be able to wrap it up by August. It’s such a hard call to make; how can I possibly know how my feelings might change by then?
I’m on the brink of something. And it’s going to alter my life’s direction. In the wise words of a friend, I need to decide “whether [my] path really needs a title and certificate to create the life [I] want.” Especially for the price tag of $40,000 a year. Vietnam was supposed to be a conclusion to a story I never finished seven years ago. It was meant to be a chunk of living between leaving the world of fashion and entering the world of academia. But it’s turned into my life. And I’m not saying that to be obvious. It wasn’t obvious—to me, anyway. I’ve wasted a lot of time “living” a “life” I wasn’t satisfied with and I’m sick of that approach. I seem to have fallen into some sort of rabbit hole because, well, I’m fucking happy!
Sunday, March 28, 2010
My first month as a "real person" in Saigon
Utopia. Heaven? This is a place where you can drive on sidewalks, eat four-star meals for ten dollars and carouse past sunrise at your favorite 24-hour haunt. My commute includes bagged goldfish and purebred puppies for sale on the backs of motorbikes. Here you pay $1 to have the use of a beautiful pool while sipping $1.75 house brewed, dark pints from the swim up bar. I make good money for the standard of living; my lifestyle is essentially unrestricted. I can afford the best of what the city has to offer and still walk away saving more than I did back home. I live in a great apartment and can travel to breathtaking destinations for very list cost. I rent a motorbike, delivered to my house, and without a license for fifty bucks and my signature. When will this get old?
Driving around Saigon on my motorbike is beyond exhilarating. My pulse quickens the moment I lay my hand to the throttle and begin propelling myself through this wild city. Sometimes, in 90-100 degree heat, it takes a lot to roll out of my air conditioned bedroom and start my day, but once I get the motorbike out of it’s mini motorbike room/garage and start ‘er up, it’s fantastic. Wind on your face, moving yourself from place to place. It’s the closest thing to flying I’ve felt. With a little bit of being-in-a-videogame thrown in. I’m really looking forward to taking a few road trips with my bike in the month of April. I can’t imagine anything better than a solo mission ride through the Vietnamese countryside. I’m thinking about checking out this hot springs resort and adjacent nature preserve about a 6-hour drive to the northeast from Saigon. It will definitely be my first trip as an official resident and tax paying employee of the country of Vietnam.
Teaching. Yup, I’m a teacher. Of children. WEIRD! But it’s pretty great, actually. And, in my case, it’s also pretty damn easy. I work every day, but only on the weekends do I peak 6 or 7 hours per day. Mostly, I work 6-9pm every night. Sometimes that’s one 3-hour class, sometimes it’s two 1hr20 minute classes. The school I work at, VUS (Vietnam-US Society), employs both a Vietnamese teacher and a native English speaking teacher for each class they enroll. The Vietnamese teachers are responsible for teaching the hard stuff: grammar, structure, testing, etc., and the teachers like myself (from Australia, America, England, Ireland, etc: any native speaking English land) are responsible for encouraging and correcting speaking and listening. Really, they are paying me a good wage just so I can be in the classroom with the kids, speaking English. So, that means I can exercise my long winded nature and show a lot of movies. Which is pretty sweet! Obviously I’ll be showing films I have not yet seen myself (Wall-E and Happy Feet were the first premieres). Additionally, the school encourages the English teachers to play lots of games with the kids. Which is roughly equivalent, on hilarity scale, as paying money to attend a comedy show. It kills me! These kids go INSANE for competition and there’s just something about Vietnamese kids and physical comedy…They beat the shit out of each other, but they seem to like it. I’ve never seen a kid cry and let me tell you, there have been several instances of heads hitting concrete floors that I was sure would lead to paralysis. So that’s fun. The teenagers are another story. I hate them. And they hate me. But, that seems to be an age old precedent, so, what can ya do? Luckily, I have more “Backpack” kids (the name of the textbook for the 6-12yr olds) than I do “Solutions” kids (textbook for the teens). I’m still figuring out the discipline aspect of being an authority figure, but I’m hoping that some time, trial and error will get that straightened out.
SO. In conclusion, I really like it here. Pictures to follow. I’ve been very bad in the past month about photography. I’m gonna head out on my bicycle one of these days and commit to a day of picture taking.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Tet

I arrived home from Thailand in the middle of Tet. Everything is closed. Everyone is gone. Traffic is slow. If you didn’t know better, you might think apocalypse, quarantine, evacuation?!? But, no, everyone’s just eating and drinking in complete excess. Think Thanksgiving: for two weeks. It’s pretty fantastic, really—unless you’re an American girl looking for a meal, preferably with an English menu. Then it’s a pain in the ass.
When I landed in Saigon, I spent a couple nights recuperating at the LanguageCorps house and after gathering my wits, was ready for the big move. Having only a couple backpacks and a bicycle, in just three short trips, I transported all of my Earthly possessions in Vietnam from LC to my new house. Moving has never been so much fun! Like every other expat in Saigon, my roommates were still away, so it was great to have the house all to myself those first few days. I would’ve booked longer travel had I known the extent of Tet’s closures (even the supermarkets close for a week and a half), but, at the same time, it was cool to be here to see it. Downtown, many streets are shut down to motorized vehicles and thousands of people gather to appreciate the decorations, beautiful during the day and stunning at night. There’s a giant carnival at the largest park in the city that runs all day with rides, food, drinking and entertainment. The spectacle was great to see, but the lack of regular commerce made the finding of meals and the killing of time a daily predicament. Really the options were: go hang out in the backpacker district where some shops and restaurants were open, read, watch TV, sit outside or bike around aimlessly and get really sweaty.
One such day, I begrudgingly headed down to Pham Ngu Lao (backpacker district). I generally try to avoid this area because I get the impression I’m recognized. Frequent drinking and the orange bicycle can be blamed here. But, this day over Tet, I had no other alternative. I had a meal at this Indian place and thought painstakingly about a plan to get postcards and stamps. I decided that plan was not comprehensive enough, so I had a beer at a different watering hole (draught is $0.25) where I committed to coming up with another idea for 2pm ‘til bed. It was there, with cheap beer and funny old men that I would manage to whittle away the day. These older Vietnamese gents insisted I come and sit with them and though I didn’t really want to, I also didn’t want to offend. What I had planned as a sit-here-til-i-finish-my-drink interaction turned into an entire afternoon lunar New Year drinking binge. These guys toasted “happy happy” just about every 2 minutes and would not let my glass get below 80% full. We feasted and drank and various other clients came in and out of our table’s conversations: some Nigerian drug dealers, a few Aussie travelers and plenty of Vietnamese partiers. Mr. Binh, the ring leader, paid for everything and was literally throwing money around the establishment. Vietnamese people save all year long for the extravagances of Tet. Petty crime goes up in the weeks leading up to the New Year because everyone wants to be able to finance their own Tet celebration. There is but one point of Tet: to enjoy yourself as much as possible. And I did. One of my afternoon companions even offered to be my sugar daddy. That was around the time I made my exit.
The evening progressed into hanging out with the guy who sat next to me on the plane back from Thailand—initiated by me calling out “hey! Guy who sat next to me on the plane!” He was a 33-yr old, divorced father of 5, ex-con from Sweden who works oil rigs off the coast of Norway for 6 months and runs a titty bar in Thailand the remainder of the year. We did drugs and hung out with prostitutes. But, that’s another story. For another day. Tet was a trip and even though the timing made my job acquisition a little more difficult, in the end, I’m glad I got to see what a city of 8 million people is like when it shuts down. For the purpose of partying.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
I gotta Phi Phi
I caught the 8:30 airport bus for 85baht, or, around $3. I had planned to make a transfer from the bus station to the pier, but when I got on the bus, the driver asked me where I was going. He told me I could connect directly and that sounded good, so we drove into Phuket Town and I alone was dropped off at a Toyota pick-up truck. Apparently that was my connection; Toyota dude brought me to the pier and escorted me to the ticket-seller guy. Turns out I could’ve gotten a much better deal on the ticket in town and that whole set-up was just a way to get me to pay more for the ferry. But, whatever, it was convenient anddd I ended up catching the 11am un-published online ferry, rather than waiting around for the 2pm which was my intention. Twenty dollars well spent and the boat ride was fantastic. Sat on the roof, dangled my feet off the side and conversed with a Dutch guy named Bob. He told me Bob is a really common Dutch name and that it’s not short for Robert. I ended up running into him several times on the island—once that I don’t remember, once on the walk to the town on an ATM quest and dying of thirst, and again that same day on the walk back when I was far more chipper, but he was crispy sunburned and complaining of being sick and drinking too much the previous night. So I think we’re even. After the ferry arrived, I bought a Chang beer, brought it with me, caught a longboat taxi and headed for the Phi Phi Hill Resort. I made the reservations online for my friend Susan and I to split a sunrise bungalow with two twin beds and a fan for $20 a night.
The walk to The Hill was epic and required an ascent of about a million stairs that where themselves 2’ for each step. I have never been in better shape than I am after this vacation. Seriously. But the views were incredible, the food was reasonable, and overall it exceeded my expectations of how far $10/night can take you. In terms of transportation, you could pay either $3 each way for a longboat taxi into town, or you could make the 45-minute trek that brought you from the hotel to the edge of town. Once Susan and I figured out the path, we were hiking at least 1.5 hours a day. During the day we baked in the sun and at night we cruised the town streets with 7-Eleven beers in hand, drank at bars on the beach, took in fire throwing shows and ate delicious street meat. One day we took a longboat tour of all of the island’s beaches, including adjacent island Phi Phi Leh where Maya Bay is (Leo Dicap’s The Beach was filmed here). The boat stopped at prime snorkeling sites and even though I’m a ‘fraidy cat of creatures of the sea, I was stationary in awe. The most beautiful colors of fish and the clearest waters…
But, after four days…I was ready to leave. Too much sun. And too much fun. Susan and I parted ways at 1pm on our last day. She was taking the ferry to Krabi and I to Phuket. I took one last swim in the ocean. Bought one last big Tiger and sat on the beach absorbing all that was exquisitely dazzling about Phi Phi. I boarded the ferry, bought a mini bus transfer to the airport and with perfect timing caught my flight back to Saigon. I arrived with the confidence of a local. I found a xe om (motorbike taxi), bargained my price and was off in the direction of LanguageCorps.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
My, how Saigon has changed! To put it in the currency I can best appreciate… fashion…The last time I was here, the ritzy Duong Don Khoi (Newbury Street/Michigan Ave/Rodeo Dr) was home to various vendors, arguably, the most notable and easily recognizable of which was Lacoste. For those of you who know fashion, well, Lacoste isn't exactly elite. I bought my first Lacoste top there----an ugly halter style thing I have long since sold to Second Time Around. Ironic I should decide to purchase such an item considering how prolific good knock-offs are in these parts, but, well, I think I was drunk. My friend Hillary can probably support this hypothesis. In any case, Don Khoi has grown up QUITE a bit in seven years. SEVEN YEARS. Sure, in some senses it’s a long time…Children that were 6 are now 13. That’s a big difference. But in the grand scheme of development, it’s not that long. How far has Boston come in seven years? An inch? Saigon? Another story all together…Now, what do I find on Don Khoi? Chloe. Marc Jacobs. Louis Vuitton. Escada. Gucci. Pretty mind-blowing. From Lacoste to ALL THE BIG NAMES. Speaking with some French women who’ve been living here a little while now, they inform me that most all of those boutiques are mostly empty most all of the time, but, regardless, their presence alone is a HUGE testament to the miles this city has traveled in a relatively short time. The sounds of Saigon are construction. The look of Saigon is a face-lift in progress. It’s incredible to bear witness to a city in the throes of capitalist evolution. Revolution? A communist country, sure. But what does that even mean? Vietnam has, just in the last year, opened up commerce to international entrepreneurs. This time last year, I wouldn’t have been able to open a business here. Not so today. I'm not sure what it all means, but I do know that the astronomical asking price of an $8 cocktail buys you a view from a much higher vantage point than it did seven years ago. It certainly will be interesting to see where the Thanh Pho Ho Chi Minh is in another lucky 7 years.
Sunday, January 31, 2010
Six Degrees of Separation from Kevin Bacon
My friend, Minh, she’s the real deal. She’s the kind of woman that, seven long years of experience later, takes you under her wing and makes it her business to gift you contacts of incredible people open to the idea of friendship in an ex-pat society. As the saying goes, any friend of Minh’s is a friend of mine. And I mean that in a more genuine way than any cliché, regardless of how appropriate, could indicate. I had a great night out celebrating Minh’s departure for the States. She’s headed to marry the man that’s right for her and I wish her the best. And I hope to experience Saigon alongside the people worthy enough to be considered her friends in the months to come.
Monday, January 25, 2010
Week 3, bigotry...and I'm just plain happy.
Having come from the LanguageCorps program of 18 people with only one other person destined for Vietnam, I didn't have high hopes of forming a long lasting bond with the 39-year old, African American, ex-NYPD cop...But I certainly did not have any expectations of being belittled to the brink of depravity. While silent treatment over the course of a weekend spent in a beautiful paradise--cause unknown--seemed ridiculous...I was utterly unprepared for an outburst of racist accusation when I made the, apparently, major error of contributing my thoughts to a class-related discussion this morning. After being called a slew of humanity-insulting names and then talked over in all efforts to discuss this grave misunderstanding...I realized that a mere mortal can't fight the devil inside a disturbed individual. While I could not eat a thing all day until 9pm (for those of you who know me realize what an anomaly this is), and cried for a solid hour...I have, over the course of a day, made peace with this awful experience.
I made a date for coffee with my longtime Vietnamese friend, Minh, and through her wonderful motivation to coordinate with a few other friends I've not kept as good a touch with, I ended up enjoying two hours in the company of Minh, Thu and Anh Hung, a teacher of the SIT program I went to Vietnam with in 2003. I left Da Cafe feeling like I wanted to cry...But for an entirely different reason than the tears the morning brought. I was so deeply touched by others' willingness to enjoy a simple coffee, having not seen them in seven years, and their memories so amazingly intact, in spite of having seen multitudes of study abroad groups just like mine. They could remember every member of my group and even silly details such as my boyfriend's name at the time. I thank the powers of the universe for giving me this gift following a morning I will not forget for the rest of my life. There was nothing or no one that could bring me happiness like these three did tonight and I will never forget the feeling I felt when I parted with them. It's not that we had particularly amazing conversation or that they stroked my ego or anything describable...It was simply that they showed up at 6pm to enjoy mine and each others' company.
I feel much pity for human beings in this world who have been so ill treated in their lives that they not only expect the worst, but actually LOOK for the worst in people. I feel sadness for those who, in a moment of self-doubt, go to the deepest, darkest place in their mind and use that as a weapon against others. When someone makes you feel badly, the immediate reaction is defense and self pity, but, the truth is, when you've been so lucky in this life, you need those moments of misery to be able to appreciate and contextualize the entire lifetimes of misery that other people live. You get back what you put in and since my day ended with wonderful people and a smile on my face, I'm quite certain that tomorrow holds nothing but happiness.
This city...there's just something about it...I can't wipe the smile from my face. I'm not a city person--but in a metropolis of nearly 6 million people--I couldn't feel more at home. Even when a push becomes a shove, it's still not enough to kick me off my cloud. There's NO wound a few Saigons won't numb...and heal. So cheers to that.
Tuesday, January 19, 2010
Two Weeks Since I Left!
Sunday, January 17, 2010
First Week in Phnom Penh
Do you ever feel like it’s all a useless crock of shit? That putting in any effort whatsoever is not worth the disappointment when it gets you nowhere, yields you nothing? That—quite literally—is the national attitude of Cambodia. A people crippled by war, genocide, famine and corruption, Cambodians have come out of the horrors of the past forty years with no choice but to live right now, right here, and can barely conceptualize the future. There are very few Cambodians over the age of 45—the majority of them were murdered or starved during the reign of the Khmer Rouge and this is poignantly obvious as you drive through the streets. Everyone is young. And most everyone is poor. While the street scene is not unlike that of Ho Chi Minh City, there’s something heavy in the air of Phnom Penh that enables you to almost touch the repression this society is cloaked in. How can you have dreams if there is absolutely no way to make them happen? In the US we have the great “American Dream” to motivate our ambitions. Though it may be an illusion, at least we still have it. Cambodians have the day to get through. That’s all they have. While the Khmer (pronounced Kah Mai) people are super friendly and their faces seemingly quite happy, as you move through the city it’s impossible to ignore the institutionalized complacency and borderline hopelessness that pervades life here. The socioeconomic discrepancies are made really apparent by status symbol Lexus and Range Rover SUVs, some with US license plates, owned by the few wealthy Cambodians and western NGO workers. It’s strange, really. There are so few cars, but the ones you see are for the most part luxurious. Cambodia is one big contradiction. Though they have a throw-you-in-jail-if-you-get-caught drug policy, the smell of marijuana is everywhere and there are “Happy” pizza places all over the place. If you order “happy, happy, happy pizza” you get some THC as a topping. There are traffic lights and yellow lines on the street, but that has no bearing on driving whatsoever. Traffic is a complete free-for-all. Drive on the right side, drive on the wrong side: whatever gets you to your destination fastest. In spite of chaos, it seems to work. Cambodia has only been established for 16 years now. The last of the fighting ended in 1993 and it’s amazing to think of how far this nation has come in such a short time. Governed by a democratically elected communist party (yet another contradiction) and a figurehead king, Cambodians seem to revere their king and support their government. In an amazing twist of fate, girlfriends of mine and I could not go for our $6 massages as planned at 5:30, so we went to the riverside to have a beer until 6 when the masseurs were available again. While we sat in a second floor balcony enjoying some Angkor beer, we realized that the traffic on the street below had ceased; the street was completely empty. Employees of the restaurant informed us that the King would be driving through. Shortly his royal motorcade began to appear and then, there he was: in an SUV, dressed in regular clothes, sticking his head outside of an open window, waving and smiling. Imagine Queen Elizabeth or Obama sticking their head out of an open window? The employees of the restaurant impressed upon us how rare it was to see and I was amazed by how close, accidentally, I got to a KING! Cambodia…It’s an interesting place.
Monday, January 11, 2010
Arrival
16 hours on the flight to Hong Kong honestly flew by. I thought it'd be hell, but well planned sleeping, accompanied by well dosed Xanax enabled me to catch a good amount of Z's, still take advantage of the three spectacular meals of airplane food (which, categorically, I have never felt was worthy of complaint) and land in Hong Kong content. Jet lag isn't really an issue when you're flying from west to east--you lose more time on the clock than you do since waking up and especially if you arrive in the evening, you can hop right into bed and get a full night's rest. Since I arrived at 8pm, I booked a hostel-style guesthouse in the airport (FREE wifi, might I add. There's not an airport in the US that can lay claim to that luxury). The airport is located on one of the more remote islands of Hong Kong, so you need to get yourself into Kowloon or Hong Kong island by bus, taxi or train. The bus was the most economical option and I did try to find it, but to no avail. So I caught the high speed train for $60HKD to Kowloon, followed the directions given by the guest house to take advantage of the airport express shuttle bus to the Holiday Inn and then the Chungking Mansions, where the guesthouse was located, are around the corner. Tall white girl with gigantic backpack on back and medium size backpack on front is not exactly inconspicuous, so approaching the Chungking Mansions I was mauled by men of Indian-ish decent. At first I was a bit frightened and uncomfortable that I was a walking target, but later I realized it was only the men's jobs to wrangle incoming travelers for their respective guest houses. As it turned out, the Chungking Mansions is a huge apartment-style building, in which there are about 15 different hostels and guest houses. Since I had pre-booked, I was destined for Ashoka and after getting over the initial assualt, I entered the lobby and quickly found someone with my name on a paper saying "reservation!" It was a bit disconcerting that there were so many men around, but shortly thereafter a young British girl showed up looking for a room and her being so at-ease allowed me to relax a bit. Culture shock is just culture shock, after all. I made my way to my room. Paid $180HKD (about thirty bucks) for a private room with a bathroom--and that was probably over paying--and settled in for my first night.
